You may have seen an explosion of articles floating around the internet in recent years concerning “the Korean 10-step skin care routine” and wondered if you were missing out.
Skin care enthusiasts in the West may have looked at medicine cabinets and beauty counters full of exfoliants and retinols and wondered where those extra steps could be coming from and what they could offer.
Taiwanese American skin care blogger Jude Chao (aka Fifty Shades of Snail or @fiddysnails) is a convert who discovered K-beauty after dipping her toes into the Skincare Addiction subreddit.
She explains, “The ‘Korean 10-step skin care routine’ is a shorthand for the concept of the long, multilayered skin care routine that K-beauty popularized all over the world. In contrast to the conventional three-step cleanser-toner-moisturizer routine that many of us grew up with, the ‘10-step skin care routine’ incorporates products like essences, serums, ampoules, and sheet masks into it.”
The flexibility of the concept is what’s so great for so many people.
While there are some variations, the 10-step routine follows this order:
- oil-based cleanser
- foaming or water-based cleanser
- exfoliator (only 1 or 2 times a week)
- toner
- essence
- serum or ampoule
- sheet mask
- eye cream
- moisturizer
- sun protection, if it’s daytime
Phew.
Eagle-eyed readers may have noticed there’s a greater focus on hydration than on exfoliation, which is more common in a Western routine. But Chao reminds us that it’s not one-size-fits-all.
“What any one person’s skin care routine emphasizes is very dependent on the person. The flexibility of the concept is what’s so great for so many people. Personally, I do front-load my routine with some AHA, BHA, and tretinoin. Then the hydrating and nourishing steps follow — they’ve helped a ton in preventing or mitigating side effects like dryness and irritation that can often result from using strong actives. My routine, like many others’, is a hybrid of both Asian and Western products.”
You don’t have to stick strictly to 10 steps to follow this routine, either. The many-layered approach may be just what your skin has been waiting for, or it could be too much and clog your pores.
As long as you move slowly and take things literally one step at a time, you should be able to decode the signs your skin is sending when you implement new steps.
“I’ve always advised people to add only one new product to their routine at a time and use it for at least a couple of weeks before adding anything else,” Chao adds. “That way they can see whether their skin responds well to the product and whether they’ll really feel the need for any more.”
“In terms of steps alone, people need to pay attention to whether their skin is actually even absorbing all the product.” Chao says. “If they’re getting to a point in their routine where the products are just sitting on top of their skin even after waiting around for a while, it becomes clear that that’s quite enough for them.”
As long as you move slowly and take things literally one step at a time, you should be able to decode the signs your skin is sending when you implement new steps.
Your mileage may vary!
Skin health and glow are not just dependent on your skin care routine. Factors like genetics, environment, overall health, and diet can come into play too. If doing 10 steps overwhelms your skin, don’t force it. It’s OK to scale back to a simpler skin care routine.
We did a lightning round of questions with Chao about her experience and knowledge of this routine.
Do you have to use Korean brands only?
No, but Korean brands could be better prepared for the job.
“I’m still seeing the majority of Western options suitable to a K-beauty type routine at midrange and high-end price points rather than in the drugstore. Korean brands have… plenty of products to choose from at any budget,” says Chao.
Who won’t benefit from the routine, and what are the risks?
“The main risk is simply that people will use products unsuitable for their needs. A lot of vendors sell prefab skin care routine kits, claiming that they’ve curated routines perfect for various skin types or issues, but it’s not that simple or that one-size-fits-all. Again, it’s best for people to curate their routine one step at a time. That way they can stop at the right point for their own skin.”
Do you have to use all 10 steps morning and night?
“Those of us who do use a long routine generally reserve it for night, when we have the time! Morning routines tend to be much more streamlined and focused on the basics of moisture and sun protection.”
Will the 10-step routine help me achieve glass/honey/dewy skin?
“That’s [the goal of] a long, multilayered routine. Packing layers of hydration into skin will plump it up, resulting in a smoother texture, and the increased water content in skin catches light differently, providing that glassy glow we love!”
What results should I expect, and how long will it take?
“Results really depend on the individual, what products they’re using, and what their skin is like to begin with, but people who take the time to put together a good routine for their skin and who stick with it generally see a huge improvement in the radiance and texture of their skin!”
“Hydration and moisture show results quite quickly, within a couple of weeks to a month, while products that aim to improve the structure and function of skin (like vitamin C, retinoids, and anything that targets hyperpigmentation or collagen production) will take a few months.”
OK, still interested? Here we go into the (removal of the) gritty details.
Purpose and benefits
This is step one of the double cleansing method made famous by K-beauty. Believe it or not, oils can act as a powerful cleanser. They’ll draw out and dissolve excess oil, dirt, makeup, and anything else that might be on your face.
Cleansing is an important part of keeping skin clear and glowing, and you want to start with a clean slate before moving on to your next steps!
Skip if…
Your skin is too sensitive to double-cleanse or your skin reacts poorly to oils.
Popular cleansers for step 1
All skin types: You can use a true oil or a cleansing balm for this step. Banila Co Clean It Zero is an OG cleansing balm and is still beloved for good reason. It’s super effective at removing even the clingiest mascara.
Acne-prone skin: It’s OK if there’s a slight film left behind at this step, because you’ll follow up with a second cleanser. But for any of our acne-prone friends who really want to avoid excess oils, the Paula’s Choice Perfect Cleansing Oil lives up to its name by washing completely off the face without a trace of residue. The clear packaging also feels super luxurious on your counter.
Purpose and benefits
This step ensures that your skin is squeaky clean before you move on to the rest of your routine. Check the pH of this cleanser to be sure it won’t strip your skin — that’s the opposite of what we’re aiming to achieve with this routine!
Skip if…
You have ultra-dry skin and you want to use only an oil-based cleanser.
Popular cleansers for step 2
All skin types: Hada Labo Tokyo Gentle Hydrating Cleanser with Hyaluronic Acid will get you clean without making you feel like you need to sprint to your moisturizer. Clean skin and parched skin don’t have to go hand in hand!
Acne-prone skin: Clinique Acne Solutions Cleansing Gel was formulated specifically with acne-prone skin in mind. It’s lightweight and has salicylic acid to target any active breakouts.
Purpose and benefits
Freeing yourself of dead skin cells once or twice a week can help acne scars fade faster, products absorb better, and your skin feel smoother. If you want to avoid stripping your skin, you might consider replacing one of your cleansers with a gentle facial scrub on days you exfoliate.
Skip if…
You have sensitive skin, active breakouts, or open skin or you exfoliated the day before.
Popular exfoliating products for step 3
All skin types: Tatcha The Deep Cleanse is a gentle exfoliant that will remove dead skin cells without damaging your precious skin.
Acne-prone skin: This Blackhead Solutions 7 Day Deep Pore Cleanse & Scrub from Clinique is targeted toward blackheads, but it’s a true multitasker. You can also use it as a mask if you feel like your pores need a soak. While the product is framed as a daily cleanser, we’d recommend sticking to using it a couple of times a week to avoid unnecessary irritation.
Purpose and benefits
This will prep your skin for what’s to come. Keep in mind that if you’re shopping Asian brands, many use the word “lotion” to describe what Western brands call “toners.” Don’t be confused!
Skip if…
You’re on a strict budget or running low on time.
Popular toners for step 4
All skin types: COSRX comes through with Hydrium Watery Toner. It’ll make sure your skin is balanced and hydrated after your cleansing routine.
Acne-prone skin: Good Molecules Niacinamide Brightening Toner offers the skin-changing magic of niacinamide at an affordable price.
Purpose and benefits
The 10-step routine starts with thin products and works up to thicker products, adding layers of nourishment along the way. Your essence is the first step of nourishment as you build up to your moisturizer.
Skip if…
You’re on a time crunch or a budget.
Popular essences for step 5
All skin types: Chao likes the COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence (the mucin is collected from humanely treated snails) to nourish and protect her skin from irritation and damage. She finds that her skin heals and bounces back faster when using this.
Acne-prone skin: Another favorite of Chao’s is the Missha Time Revolution Red Algae Treatment Essence. “This hydrating essence plumps my skin up beautifully,” she says, noting that she finds her skin smoother after using it.
Purpose and benefits
Serums are the secret sauce that will really put you on the path toward the glow you seek. They’re concentrated treatments that can target whatever specific skin concerns you may have. Ampoules are like pumped-up versions of serums.
Skip if…
You used an exfoliating toner. You’ll want to stick to a nourishing, hydrating serum and avoid using any additional chemical exfoliants or peels. Avoid doubling up on harsher ingredients in your routine.
More on ampoules
Ampoules are typically housed either in dropper packaging or in individual glass or plastic packages to ensure that you’re dispensing the perfect amount of product each time and that your product is at maximum efficacy without any previous oxygen exposure.
Because of the potency of these products, you’ll want to use them as a special treat for your skin as opposed to a daily staple. You could use them for a few days leading up to a special event or treat them like an exfoliant and implement them into your routine once or twice a week.
Popular serums and ampoules for step 6
Serums for all skin types: Sulwhasoo First Care Activating Serum is a lightweight gel you can actually apply after cleansing. Chao says it preps her skin to absorb more product, and she’s found her skin to glow in a natural, rosy way over time.
Serums for acne-prone skin: Try COSRX AHA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid. It has glycolic acid as well as more hydrating ingredients and antioxidants to protect and balance the skin. The name is a bit opaque on this one (what kind of liquid is it?), but you can feel free to use it like a serum.
Ampoule: The Plant Base Time Stop Collagen Ampoule. This ampoule is hydrating, soothing, and skin-smoothing and addresses signs of aging. What more could you want?
Purpose and benefits
Sheet masks are a unique way to mask because the nature of the application means the maximum amount of product will be pushed into your skin rather than evaporate into the air.
You might notice that the package will have a lot of extra serum at the bottom. Don’t save it for later — apply it to your neck, your chest, and the backs of your hands for maximum glow.
Skip if…
You’re concerned about the typically single-use nature of the packaging or you’re on a time crunch.
Popular sheet masks for step 7
All skin types: A’PIEU Daily Sheet Mask — Green Tea has the budget-conscious and the eco-conscious folks in mind. You get 33 hydrating, soothing, antioxidant-packed masks all in one package.
Acne-prone skin: Mediheal Tea Tree Essential Blemish Control Sheet Mask has enough acne-fighting ingredients to hit acne from every angle. Tee tree, rosemary, willow bark, chamomile, and Asiatic pennywort will keep your skin soothed and blemish-free.
Purpose and benefits
While you may not necessarily need a designated eye cream, if you have super-sensitive eyes or very specific goals for your eye area, you may want one to moisturize, de-puff, or minimize signs of aging.
Skip if…
Your moisturizer is safe for the eye area or you don’t have specific goals for your eyes that are separate from your overall skin goals.
Popular eye creams for step 8
Elensilia CPP Collagen 80% Intensive Eye Cream is a good choice for anyone worried about fine lines and wrinkles or tired-looking under-eyes.
Purpose and benefits
Moisturize to keep your skin hydrated and your skin barrier balanced.
Skip if…
Please don’t ever skip your moisturizer!
Popular moisturizers for step 9
All skin types: Tarte Baba Bomb Moisturizer is designed to deeply quench your skin with babassu, avocado, and green tea. As a plus, the packaging combines the luxury of a jar with the hygiene of a pump. It’s the little things.
Acne-prone skin: In addition to hydrating, Klairs Midnight Blue Calming Cream soothes the skin, so it’s the perfect choice for those who deal with acne, redness, or irritation.
Purpose and benefits
The sun is kryptonite to your skin, so you’ll want to protect yourself from it at all costs. Sun exposure can also speed up signs of aging, slow the healing of acne scars, and, ya know, cause skin cancer… so protect your skin, people!
Skip if…
It’s nighttime and you’re going to bed.
Popular sunscreens for step 10
All skin types: Thank You Farmer Sun Project Water Sun Cream. K-beauty is known for having the best sunscreens, and this formula doesn’t disappoint. It’s hydrating and dewy and doesn’t leave a white cast. We love to see it.
Acne-prone skin: Neogen Day-Light Protection Sunscreen/SPF 50 PA+++ keeps you fully protected from the sun, but its lightweight formula won’t leave you feeling greasy or claustrophobic.
“Over the past few years, different brands and people have claimed they’re the ones who invented the 10-step routine or coined the term, but ultimately it wasn’t any one person’s discovery,” Chao explains. “It was a gradual evolution, driven by the development and marketing of ever more specialized products (and the desire to sell more products to skin care consumers!).”
Though we may not know the exact origins of the 10-step routine, we do know that K-beauty has forever changed the skin care landscape worldwide. Gone is the veil of mystery surrounding what’s in our products. Now we shop by ingredients and formulations that have piqued our interest in an effort to re-create the refreshed image of what skin looks like.
And we may even have the 10-step routine to thank for normalizing “skin care as self-care.” Every step is part of a long, luxurious ritual that lets us relax and treat ourselves after a long day.
While the 10-step routine can be fun and offer great results, it might not be for everybody. Every person’s skin reacts differently to using a lot of products, and time and budget constraints could make it challenging to implement for some. If you’re interested, make sure you have your basics covered, and you can slowly build from there.
K-beauty has become much easier to get your hands on in recent years. You might want to try Soko Glam to get started — the site has a wide selection of curated products and a wealth of information.
Brands like COSRX and Missha, which are easy to find at Ulta or Amazon, might be a good place to start. They’ve been in the game for a long time and have a variety of tried and trusted formulations for all skin types.
Above all, remember that going through these steps is about making the time to care for yourself. So take your time. You deserve it.
